Grey and dreary autumn skies make for perfect fish market outings. Morning rituals in Normandy involve going to the marché to pick up seasonal vegetables and fruits from the local farmers along with a couple of pain au chocolate from the bakery for my still sleeping boyfriend. Late night music sessions in the studio call for being woken up with warm, flaky pastries. But for the fish, we have to come back. The fish sold at the harbors of Trouville are so fresh that we return to town in the late afternoon, just as the fishermen come back from their daily outings, so we can select that evening's dinner directly from the boats. It's a real privilege to engage with food and its producers in such a way.
One of the last late summer meals of the season. This recipe somewhat reminds me of Spanish paella, but takes on a French context through its simple ingredients and its presentation on a bed of rice like a blanquette de veau. This is one of my favorite dishes to make for guests. The rice can be prepared slightly ahead, as well as the sauce, and just before serving, the sauce is heated, the fish tossed through to cook for a few minutes and served over the rice. It's incredibly simple, deceptively so, and keeps you from spending half the dinner in the kitchen away from your guests.
When we miss the fishing boats, there's always the marché aux poisons in Trouville, open all day and filled with every fruit de mer and fish imaginable–season dependent of course–from oysters and sea urchins to blue lobsters, langoustines and giant salt water fishes. If you're gracious, the fishmongers might even throw in some herbs, lemons and homemade mayonnaise along with your fish selection.
Parmesan Haricots Verts
serves 4-6
Ingredients
3 cups green beans
2 to 3 shallots
1/4 cup basil
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
1/8 to 1/4 cup parmesan cheese
Salt and pepper
Recipe
Fill a large bowl with ice and cold water, set aside.
Finely dice shallots and basil.
Boil beans with a pinch of salt for 3 to 4 minutes.
Drain and immediately toss beans in the ice water for a minute to blanche them, stopping the cooking process and retaining the green color and crispness.
Remove beans from ice water and pat dry with paper towel. Set aside.
In a large bowl, toss olive oil, balsamic vinegar, shallots and salt and pepper.
Add beans, basil, and parmesan cheese. Serve immediately. The dish can also be served cold.
Paella Ratatouille
serves 4
Ingredients
2 cups rice
1/2 pound mussels
10 shrimp
1 pound cod, cut into cubes
1/2 pound clams
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 cups tomato sauce
1 large zucchini, diced
2 onions, diced
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
Handful of basil
Salt and pepper
Recipe
Steam/cook rice. It should be finished by the time the dish is finished.
In a large sauce pan, sauté the onions and garlic in olive oil on medium heat until soft and translucent. Add a few tablespoons of water while stirring to break down the sugars in the onions and create a caramelized effect. This also speeds up the cooking process.
Add the zucchini and stir for a couple of minutes.
Lower the heat and add tomato sauce, basil and salt and pepper and let gently simmer for five to ten minutes to allow flavors infuse.
Raise heat and add the cod and cook for about three minutes.
Add the shrimp, mussels, and clams, toss inside the sauce and cover. Simmer for two to three minutes. The mussels and clams will be done the second they open. Check under the lid often as they can overcook quickly and become rubbery.
Distribute rice over plates and ladle on the shellfish and tomato mixture. Serve immediately.
Tomato Beet Salad
serves 4 to 6
Ingredients
2 large tomatoes, halved and sliced
1 small onion, sliced
4-6 beets, boiled
Handful of basil, chopped
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
1/2 teaspoon mustard
Salt and pepper
Recipe
In a large bowl, mix together olive oil, vinegar, mustard, and salt and pepper. Add onions and toss.
Add tomato, beets, and basil and toss until dressing is evenly distributed.